Manaslu Circuit and Tsum Valley trek - Days 121-146
This 26 day trek was amazing, surreal, and life-changing. To try to describe all that we experienced together would be far too much and it likely would not even come close to doing it justice. The people, the sights, the physical and mental challenges, the group bonding, the cultural and spiritual enlightenment. It's all too much to try to put into words. If you truly want to know how it was, you'll just have to go experience it for yourself. And I'd highly recommend that.
However, to appease the parents, here are some highlights and thanks to Tyler's GPS watch, some objective data for each day of trekking:
Day 1: Kathmandu -> Arughat (530 m/1,739 ft)
Hot, sweaty, and jostling jeep drive that was supposed to take 6 hours. Took 12 hours instead. "It's festival time," they said. Tyler's least favorite day. Much better than expected lodging, though. Also, our first [of many] dal bhat dinner.
Distance: 79 miles
Day 2: Arughat -> Maccha Khola (920 m/3,018 ft)
Completed the previous day's jeep ride from Arughat to Soti Khola (as far as the roads go), then began our actual trekking. Lodging that night was one of the worst of the trip, though we didn't know it at the time so we were quite nervous it would only get worse from here... What did we sign ourselves up for?
Distance: 9.45 miles
Trekking time: 4:45 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 4,457 ft
Net gain: -1,627 ft
Day 3: Maccha Khola -> Jagat (1,420 m/4,625 ft)
With the intense heat and the constant up-down (take a look at that gross vs net gain), this was one of the hardest days. But we were one of the fastest groups, leading Buddhi to dub us "Team Mountain Goat". Lodging was much better, phew. At night, we went into the village to dance with the local kids during their festival celebration - super fun!
Distance: 14.48 miles
Trekking time: 5:42 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 14,370 ft
Net gain: 1,714 ft
Day 4: Jagat -> Phillim (1,590 m/5,215 ft)
Our first take-it-easy day, we were done by mid morning. Did some laundry, played cards, watched Buddhi and the boys help make us some mutton curry for dinner (completely from start to finish, if you catch my drift).
Distance: 4.3 miles
Trekking time: 2:03 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 2,210 ft
Net gain: 554 ft
Day 5: Phillim -> Chumling (2,380 m/7,806 ft)
My least favorite day of the trek. Very difficult physically. We had officially entered Tsum Valley and I was irrationally mad at Ben for selecting this add-on, completely optional 7-day side trip thinking it would only get tougher from here on out. Really good tea though. And first view of up-close snowy peaks!
Distance: 11.19 miles
Trekking time: 5:09 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 10,018 ft
Net gain: 7,547 ft
Day 6: Chumling -> Chhekangpar (3,030 m/9,938 ft)
Interestingly, Taylor's least favorite day but Tyler's favorite day. Taylor was having some stomach issues and kept having to run to the sole bathroom located downstairs, outside and around the corner in the middle of the night. Plus, didn't sleep well on the hard straw mattress. Then the next morning was difficult for him on little sleep and probable dehydration. Tyler loved it because it was when we finally started to get some cooler weather which made for easier hiking and sleeping. And we had some autumn-esque views that reminded him of Wisconsin. This was the first village where we ate our dinners in the "family room" within the home. Also when our obsession with the game 500 began.
Distance: 7.38 miles
Trekking time: 3:24 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 5,070 ft
Net gain: 2,379 ft
Day 7: Chhekangpar -> Nile (3,360 m/11,021 ft)
Super easy hiking day: perfect weather, easy flat path. Came across a group of young men playing vball out in a field (without a net). Using Buddhi to translate, we learned that they were practicing for a match later that day against another village. The prize at stake: a goat for their village. Very eye-opening experience because on the surface, they seemed very similar to us (same age, same style of clothing, same sense of humor, same in many many ways) but their daily lives are very very different than ours. One of my favorite experiences. Nile had Taylor's favorite Tibetan bread.
Distance: 7.23 miles
Trekking time: 3:12 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 1,401 ft
Net gain: 927 ft
Day 8: Nile -> Mu Gompa (3,700 m/12,136 ft)
A monastery up on a hill deep within the valley, where we would stay overnight before turning back around out of the Tsum valley. Hiked a bit past the monastery and came across a couple living in a... "tent" might be the best way to describe it? Imagine a rock wall ~3 ft high on 3 sides of a square, then loosely covered with tarp. Add a stove inside and you have their home. Amazing simplicity. They would travel across the Tibetan boarder to buy Chinese goods to bring back and sell to yak herders. Monastery was basic, but adequate. Had Ben and my favorite Tibetan bread.
Distance: 8.25 miles
Trekking time: 3:53 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 2,891 ft
Net gain: 1,045 ft
Day 9: Mu Gompa -> Chhekangpar (3,030 m/9,938 ft)
Backing out of the Tsum valley now, resulting in easy downhill hiking. We were supposed to go to another village to be able to hike up to Ganesh Himal basecamp, but chickened out after learning we'd have to stay in tents. Westerners, am I right?
Distance: 10.01 miles
Trekking time: 3:37 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 373 ft
Net gain: -2,239 ft
Day 10: Chhekangpar -> Chumling (2,380 m/7,806 ft)
Steeper downhill hiking today, still easier than going up.
Distance: 7.39 miles
Trekking time: 2:40 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 2,903 ft
Net gain: -2,340 ft
Day 11: Chumling -> Deng
Officially made it in and out of the Tsum Valley. Lodging is definitely less rustic on this side. More people around as well, which is both good and bad.
Distance: 11.5 miles
Trekking time: 4:38 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 9,327 ft
Net gain: -354 ft
Day 12: Deng -> Prok (2,400 m/7,872 ft)
Fricken terrible hike. Ben's least favorite day. Straight up for hours and hours. We finally get in and want to rest/relax but the family had hired monks to come into the home and "ward off bad-luck spirits", which was actually just monks banging drums loudly and off-beat all day.
Distance: 7.56 miles
Trekking time: 2:49 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 6,036 ft
Net gain: 1,752 ft
Day 13: Day hike/rest day in Prok
Plan was to hike up to a lake, but it was straight up once again. Not wanting to do that right after a day like yesterday, we hired horses to take us up. Nepali horses are small, and it seemed like they struggled hard to lug us up. So Ben and I gave up half-way up and had a relaxing afternoon at the tea house. Ask Tay or Ty if you want to know how the lake was.
Day 14: Prok -> Namrung (2,660 m/8,725 ft)
Somehow, in the middle of the Himalayas, days away from the nearest road, we find this Mecca. It's a 4-season resort, complete with wifi, comfy rooms, and the best part... western toilets. Imagine the boys' excitement when after two weeks of squatting, they have a throne to sit on AND internet! Needless to say, we stayed two nights.
Distance: 5.24 miles
Trekking time: 2:29 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 2,446 ft
Net gain: 877 ft
Day 15: Rest day
Cards (taught Buddhi and Til how to play Oh Hell), reading, short waterfall hike. And taking advantage of the western toilets, of course.
Day 16: Namrung -> Lho (3,180 m/10,430 ft)
Starting to really feel the altitude affecting our breathing/endurance. Tay sped ahead and nearly killed the rest of us trying to keep up. Best view of Manaslu, especially at sunrise. Star gazing was great as well. Best dal bhat, in my opinion. But let's be honest, it was always delicious.
Distance: 6.14 miles
Trekking time: 2:19 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 2,984 ft
Net gain: 1,774 ft
Day 17: Lho -> Shyala
Normally trekkers don't stay here because its so close to Lho and Samagaun (two of the main villages). But it is in a fantastic location surrounded by an amphitheater of snowy peaks, so we decided to stay. It was beautiful. We napped then played frisbee up in a big field. This is when Tay and I got our first and only win against Ben/Ty in 500. And only because they got -500 pts.
Distance: 2.29 miles
Trekking time: 1:08 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 1,526 ft
Net gain: 1,060 ft
Day 18: Shyala -> Samagaun (3,530 m/11,578 ft)
Saw some huge, majestic yaks along the way. Once settled at our tea house, we walked to a nearby school to toss some friz. Eventually, someone came by with a soccer ball and we started a little USA vs Nepal match. After school let out, the kiddos surrounded us to watch. So much fun. Team USA for the win!
Distance: 2.44 miles
Trekking time: 0:57 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 272 ft
Net gain: 0 ft
Day 19: Hike to Manaslu Base Camp (4,400 m/14,432 ft)
Expected to be one of our toughest days, but morale was high and it wasn't so bad! Was cold and windy at the top, but we enjoyed our chapati/peanut butter/honey lunch and were offered tea by one of the tents. Great views, great accomplishment. The trek back down was rough on the knees, we were definitely sore the next day.
Distance: 9.02 miles
Trekking time: 5:41 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 4,422 ft
Net gain: 0 ft
Day 20: Samagaun -> Samdo (3,860 m/12,661 ft)
We were supposed to have a rest day today (needed after the basal camp hike yesterday), but our Samaguan tea house was full and we needed to move. Hike should have been very easy, but it was a bit of a struggle with our soreness. Evening was quite cold. The tea house had a stove, but we think they were burning dried cow pies as fuel? Smell wasn't great.
Distance: 4.75 miles
Trekking time: 1:58 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 1,061 ft
Net gain: 1,000 ft
Day 21: Samdo -> Dharamshala (4,480 m/14,694 ft)
The only day it rained on us while hiking, and it was more of a sprinkle. Breathing at this altitude was tough, we needed to take a bunch of breaks. This is highest we ever slept as the pass was the following day. Dharamshala isn't a village, just a bunch of tents and a "mess hall" in the middle. Also had a few rooms, in which we stayed thanks to Buddhi. By "room" I mean that it had 4 walls and a ceiling (and a dirt/rock floor) and all 4 of us slept on two beds that were pushed together. Certainly not the best accommodations we'll ever have (quite possibly the worst), but still pretty grateful to have this out in the middle of the mountains and at least we stayed somewhat warm.
Distance: 4.06 miles
Trekking time: 2:23 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 2,242 ft
Net gain: 2,097 ft
Day 22: Dharamshala -> Bhimthang (3,720 m/12,202 ft) over Larke La pass (5,100 m/16,728 ft)
It's pass day! Had to get up at 3:30am for a quick breakfast before we started trekking. Didn't sleep much that night so we were all moving on low fuel. It was extremely cold - all layers on - and still very much dark - headlamps as well. To be expected, altitude made it tough but we were all super excited to get over the pass. Having excellent weather helped as well - no wind, not a cloud in the sky! We're very fortunate to have had such a great pass day. Stayed at the top for awhile, snapping pics and enjoying the accomplishment. I even got a little emotional. The trek down to Bhimtang was steep and long, but when we made it, we were amazed by the views. Surrounded by beautiful snowy peaks, with a picturesque river running through the town. Despite our exhaustion, we went out into a field and played soccer versus the Nepalis for hours. Once again, Team USA with the win. Ben, Taylor, and my favorite day of the trek.
Distance: 9.78 miles
Trekking time: 5:38 hr
Elevation:
Gross gain: 2,292 ft
Net gain: -2,493 ft
Day 23: Bhimthang -> Gho
Our original plan had been to have a rest day in our favorite village so far, but we woke up to rain and overcast. No use sticking around if we can't take advantage of the beautiful views. So off we went to Gho, which was actually very nice. A huge room with a super comfy bed. The only weird part was that after dinner, the owner decided to sing karaoke in the restaurant. Would have been neat, but it wasn't very good. So awful that Tyler decided not to come back from the bathroom. Eventually we all sneakily retreated to our rooms.
Distance: 8.42 miles
Trekking time: 3:53 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 531 ft
Net gain: -3,888 ft
Day 24: Gho -> Dharapani (1965 m/6445 ft)
Our last day of actual hiking. Went down through the valley along the river. Pretty bummed that the hiking part is over, but we feel pretty damn accomplished!
Distance: 5.61 miles
Trekking time: 2:02 hrs
Elevation:
Gross gain: 552 ft
Net gain: -1,936 ft
Day 25: Dharapani -> Besisahar
Long, bumpy, and hot jeep ride. We passed all of the hikers starting their Annapurna circuit and it looked awful. Hundreds of hikers in a single file line along the side of road. Really glad we did the lesser popular Manaslu circuit instead. Thanks, Ben! Spent the evening playing cards with Buddhi and Til and gave them our thank yous (Buddhi now has our frisbee, signed just for him).
Day 26: Besisahar -> Turture
Last breakfast with Buddhi and the boys (Buh-buh-buh-Buddhi and the boys). Took the bus to Turture where we said our goodbyes and were greeted by Bhuwan!
Looking back, I'm very proud to have accomplished this physically and mentally challenging trek. I think we each had our days when we were feeling exhausted one way or another and really questioned why in the world we decided to do this. But we encouraged each other, made light jokes of the situation, and completed the trek in high spirits. I couldn't have picked a better group to be with. Thanks, boys.
Special shoutout to our guide, Buddhi, and our porters, Til and Suk. Thanks for dealing with our antics 24/7 for a month.