Turture - Days 146-147
Almost a year prior to the trek, we had worked with Bhuwan to select trekking dates that coincided with Tihar, the second largest Hindu celebration in Nepal. Fortunately for us, Bhuwan and his family generously offered to host us and celebrate with them in their home village. Though we were mentally a little ready to be done with Nepal, we still had these last few days of village life - completely unsure how it would be. So we had our last breakfast with Buddhi and the boys, hopped on a bus, and headed to a town called Turture, where Bhuwan was waiting to warmly greet us.
We’re introduced to Bhuwan’s family - mother, father, sister, wife, and two daughters - and shown around their home. It’s quite small by western standards and half outdoors, but certainly nice and cozy. They put us up in two of their three total rooms in the house, leaving them to all sleep together on the living room floor. Just the start of the incredible generosity and hospitality shown over the next few days.
After a bit of relaxation, we had a delicious lunch made for us by Bhuwan’s wife and mother. Fresh fish (caught in the river that morning by his father) and tasty chicken dal bhat. Then Bhuwan’s friend Bides showed us around the local villages. There were lots of kiddos and
families who were home to celebrate and they definitely noticed that we were not from around there - all amazed and joyous that we chose their village to visit during Tihar. We played on a ginormous bamboo swing, found some locals practicing their music in prep for the evening festivities, got some little street treats, watched a ping pong match, and were offered “ground nuts” (aka peanuts) - all-in-all a fun afternoon despite the intense heat.
The best was the walk back though. We happened upon a pomelo fruit tree and expressed interest in trying it. The grandma sitting outside invited us into her home, offered us tasty tea, and cut up some fruit (with a super spicy chili/sugar mixture). All the kiddos from the village must have found out because eventually we were surrounded by 10+ kids looking at us like we were celebrities (and loving Taylor’s camera). The adults did too a bit. That particular day of the festival was all about worshiping cows (signifying prosperity and wealth) and they are supposed to show gratitude towards Laxmi, the goddess of wealth. The grandma joked that I was Laxmi coming to visit her village haha. They were all overwhelmingly nice and grateful that we were there. Tay even thinks he saw the grandma tear up as we left.
We walked by another group of kiddos having a little dance party and went down to join them. They loved seeing the westerners dance (especially Tyler), despite Taylor almost kicking one kid in the face with an unnecessary split kick. We finally make it back to Bhuwans where dinner and beers are waiting for us. Delicious once again. That night, the homes and storefronts on the main street were decorated with lights and each had beautiful and an elaborate offering to Laxmi on the front step. Lots of people dressed up and dancing and there was even a pretty decent live band. Tihar is pretty fun!
After breakfast the next day (which included a tasty new treat called sel rotti), Bides took us around again. We must have been a bit smelly because he took us to the river to swim/bathe - though it felt weird being a girl there amongst all of the Hindu men. Then to a Hindu temple where we were blessed with tikka (which almost immediately was sweated off).
Tasty and tender mutton curry for lunch - Bhuwan’s wife is a very good cook. We ate a lot and then napped it off. Then ate and drank pretty much all evening. Taylor had expressed interest in trying out buffalo chow mein so we offered to go there for dinner thinking that then the family didn’t have to cook for us again (one of their little girls was sick and needed to be taken care of). The owner of the restaurant was Bhuwan’s friend so in addition to the chow mein, he offered us sel rotti and raksi (homemade rice wine and the drink of choice in Nepal). Then we walked through the village and stopped in front of a school where a group of Nepalis were enjoying a dance routine. We joined and watched for a bit, while being fed helping after helping of potato curry and roti and bottomless raksi. Eventually we were somewhat forced to join the dance and it was actually quite a bit harder than it looks! Lots of quick turns and I never did get the hand movement down.
We’re already quite full at this point and have had a decent amount of raksi, but we get back to Bhuwans and after a blessing by his mom to worship our bodies, we find the grand finale of dinners. They had prepared all of our favorite items from the previous two days - chicken curry, bitten rice, sel rotti, potato curry, etc. Plus large beers. Partially to avoid being rude and partially because it looked delicious, we dig in and stuff it all down. Some even got seconds! Before everyone was done eating, Tyler needs to excuse himself - he ate so much he started sweating and needed some fresh air. The other boys follow suit soon after. Surprisingly, I’m the last one left at the table but I attribute that to the “shake it down” method. Bhuwan and I went up to check on the boys (I think Bhuwan had wanted to hang out this evening) but they were all in a deep food coma. I guess that’s what hours and hours of eating will do to you.
Being in Turture to celebrate Tihar with Bhuwan’s family and the surrounding villagers was one of the best cultural experiences I have experienced. Amazing people and incredible hospitality. We tried to express our gratitude during our goodbyes the next morning, but they came right back with departing gifts for us - a scarf for me and Nepali hats for the boys. So nice.
